Spa-Hopping in the Alps (Bains de Lavey & Thermes Saint Gervais)

​​If you need a way to relax, you simply must discover the art of spas, and here in the Alps we're fortunate to have two, Thermes de Saint Gervais Mont Blanc in Le Fayet and on the Swiss side, Les Bains de Lavey. Since 1807, les Thermes de Saint Gervais have brought visitors to the alps not only for relaxation, but for skin cures, especially psyorasis, itching, rashes, or eczema, to name a few. In 1829, in Lavey-les-Bains, Switzerland, the hot springs were discovered and the canton bought the neighboring land to build an elaborate spa capitalizing on the healing waters. Both spas are completely natural, however, each has its own particularities. This article is a review of each facility so you can decide for yourself which you prefer.

First, the Thermes de Saint Gervais Mont Blanc are recognized as the second skin cure locale in Europe. They are even recognized by l'Académie de Médecine, "The physio-chemical characteristics of the water are suitable for use in skin care, especially in the treatment of skin allergies, burns and scarring." The natural minerals in the water include sulfates, sodium, chlorides, potassium, lithium, magnesium and barium, in a constant temperature of 39°, coming from a depth of -3000 meters under the earth. Tucked away in a beautiful mountain park in the heart of Le Fayet, the Thermes of Saint Gervais Mont Blanc offer a wonderful place to heal, both mentally and physically. Large format prints from French artists add a creative aspect to the site, and the steep canyon walls and the gushing stream offer a natural setting in the surrounding park. Picnic benches, a climbing wall and a local community center swimming pool and tennis courts give the locals a wonderful park in which to come.

Inside the springs, the first step is to shed all the stresses of everyday life, putting all clothes and jewelry into a locker. You are given a luxurious bathrobe, thongs and a towel for your experience, a nice touch in my opinion. Then the choice is yours: steam showers, indoor mineral pool, the outdoor pool with a myriad of jets for all parts of the body. A small sauna is another option to sweat out all the surface body bacteria. Once finished with the baths, you can choose from comfortable bean chairs and music with lights, electric massage chairs, or even just heated tiles to lie on. Upstairs free snacks of fruits, cakes and tea or coffee are also offered. You can even hop on a few exercise machines if dually inspired.

The only downside of the Thermes is its small size and hours of opening. Going mid-week during the day will ensure that the number of people is low enough to really enjoy the experience. I wish they were opening later on the weekends or Friday night, for star-gazing, or during a chilly winter evening after skiing. But The Loreal Group just bought the Thermes, so I look forward to a much-needed facelift.

The Bains des Lavey are located only 1.5 hours from Le Fayet, on the Swiss side, in Lavey-les-Bains, just past Martigny. They are host to some of Switzerland's hottest springs, at 69°C. In 1832, Henri Fraisse was appointed as architect for the spas, bringing with him the Italian influence from his experiences in Rome and his studies in Les Beaux-Arts in Paris.

Combined with modern Swiss efficiency and design, against a stunning backdrop of the surrounding Swiss Alps, the Bains de Lavey is a much more cosmopolitan experience. On arrival, you are given a electronic card to ensure you only stay the allotted 3 hours, otherwise you have to pay a supplement. Also, you have to bring your own towels and bathrobes (they are available to rent).

However, once you pass the hundreds of lockers, you realize the vast size of this spa compared to Saint Gervais. It's like an amusement park of spas. The indoor spa is the size of a small swimming pool, but once outside, you have access to several Olympic-size swimming pools, two large jacuzzis and a host of other coves for relaxtion. The Swiss have thought of all the details, down to the large hangers for heavy coat provided in the lockers, and the hair dryers to dry your hair during the cold winter months. Here, though, I didn't feel the coziness I felt at Saint Gervais, but could hear any number of foreign languages being spoken: Russian, Japanese, German, French, English and Italian to name a few. Here there was so much to do, 3 hours seemed short to take advantage of it all. I think my favorite experience was the river current in the middle of the outdoor pool which literally pulled you around and around. Or the very large silver parasol sprouting large drops of water like in a Brazilian rainforest. Not only did they have saunas, but several with different temperatures to suit your tastes. I did keep losing my towel, however, as I brought a plain white one, and so did everyone else! Plus, when you go to the saunas, you have to bring a towel with you, so you have to plan accordingly.

Next time, I'll check out the gourmet restaurant and report back on my findings. I can't tell you what a wonderful relaxing experience I had, but I'll definitely go back. For Saint Gervais, we'll see what the future holds with the new acquisition by Loreal!.

Differences between the Thermes de Saint Gervais and Les Bains de Lavey:

Saint Gervais Positives:

• 2.5-hour visit, but they don't keep tabs on you

• Provide towels and bathrobes

• Provide flip-flops

• Smaller, more intimate

• Free snacks and tea

• Nice massage chairs

• Outdoor picnic area close by

• Plenty of free parking

Saint Gervais Negatives:

• Have to pay 2€ for locker

• When it's busy, you notice it, have to fight for a place

• No hair dryers

• Not open every day, closes early

• A little run down

Bains de Lavey Positives:

• Much larger, more modern

• Open late at night, great for star-gazing

• Well-laid-out, even with a ton of people, doesn't seem crowded

• Spectacular natural backdrop

• Huge outdoor poor with jets of all shapes and sizes

• Wide selection of saunas with various temperatures

• Plenty of lounge chairs, never have to look for a place

• Huge water parasol makes you feel like you're in Brazilian rainforest

• Section in pool with fast-moving current a lot of fun

• Top-notch restaurant and hotel right there, makes a great destination vacation

• Cafeteria with snacks, including homemade waffles

• Provide hair dryers

• Free lockers

Bains de Lavey Negatives:

• Have to bring your own towels

• No robes offered, have to rent

• Don't accept flip flops, have to go barefoot

• Given an access card to keep track of the time you spend

• No massage chairs

• No free snacks or tea

• Parking lot a bit small

• No internal picnic area